Colombia Motorbike Tour | Motorbike Paradise

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I initially made a reserving to experience Colombia in 2019 however simply previous to that I rode South Africa the place I used to be attacked. After that have I paused and had a rethink of my plans to experience solo in South America. I remained to experience the Andes mountains of Ecuador, Peru and Colombia however not certain about security.

I discussed in my Mexico experience report that I wish to motion as many issues as I can as a result of I don’t know if my most cancers will keep in remission. So this yr I’m making an attempt to deliver ahead a few of these rides. Ecuador is at present in a state of emergency as a result of crime and Peru moto excursions all deal with visiting vacationer websites within the south and never driving the Andes. Colombia regarded the winner.

I desire impartial driving. If I had somebody to experience with then I’d not hesitate to journey these nations independently. I believed I may need discovered somebody with related ardour however alas that also eludes me. Maybe I would like to speak extra bullshit and machismo ha-ha. Anyway ready isn’t an possibility so I’m becoming a member of Mike of Moto Dreamer excursions who I’ve adopted on Instagram just a few years.

From Mexico I fly to Bogota, a metropolis with a little bit of a fame, however I’m instructed like most of Colombia it’s not harmful now. Nonetheless I’m completely satisfied that Mike has his workers meet and switch me to the tour resort. It’s just a little factor however makes me really feel welcome in a metropolis I’m not certain about. Seems the resort is in a upmarket a part of city with designer style outlets and personal safety on each nook so it’s not downside to discover on foot.

I meet a few different riders however am nonetheless exhausted from the Mexico tour so decline to go sightseeing. Really from what I noticed between the airport and downtown I’m not impressed to go outdoors the protected space I’m in. As a substitute I get all my garments laundered and simply taking it straightforward in native cafes. The opposite riders arrive the following day. We’re from UK, Portugal, USA, Canada and one different Australian who’s a moto journalist.

Mike offers us a glorious briefing and explains the insurance coverage. Each are very skilled in comparison with the Mexico tour the place the insurance coverage coverage was not well worth the paper it was printed on. Subsequent we verify over the bikes. I’m driving a BMW 750GS and I’d strive writing a comparability Vs the massive 1250GS I rode in Mexico after this tour. Driving all tarmac on each of those excursions I see no purpose to have a ADV bike however it was not possible to pick another type and I be aware leases of non ADV bikes have gotten tougher to seek out additionally.

Bogota to Honda

Driving out of Bogota was at instances intense however after driving Mexico metropolis I used to be considerably ready. Mid morning we cease for espresso earlier than we begin into the mountains the place the roads are very good for driving bikes. The tempo may be very quick and to be sincere a lot quicker than I experience as of late. I can sustain however drift to the again to sluggish just a little because the male riders on the entrance are driving like in a race with one another.

There have been no picture stops so I get my little Casio digicam out and for as soon as this got here out okay however alas I do have some issues with the little digicam once more after right here.

Todays one and solely picture cease, it’s a spectacular view though not captured so nicely on this picture.

After some very good mountain curves we drop down off the vary into the valley the place the temperature soars to 41 levels. I’m glad Mike stops for a break pretty quickly so I can rehydrate and I down two bottles of Gatorade. I’ve loads of expertise driving in warmth however I see a few of the different riders are usually not fairing as nicely.

Then it’s a excessive velocity sweeping curve street to Salento the place we’re doing 130-160kph, It’s quick sufficient to decrease the true really feel temp however I’m glad for an early end at the moment.

At a stunning boutique resort it’s nonetheless 38 levels so I leap underneath a chilly bathe to decrease my temperature then comply with this up with a few chilly beers.

Honda to Salento

This morning we go to the positioning of small metropolis that was worn out by the eruption of Nevado Del Ruiz volcano in 1985 that created a landslide and lava movement which killed 25,000 folks. Now it’s a ghost city that nature is slowly reclaiming.

After right here Mike takes us over a brand new street that has simply been sealed as much as prime of that exact same volcano.

Test that elevation!

This street was gravel for years however now could be the brand new premium mountain street of Colombia that ascends to a top of 4100m!

Sorry no pictures on the best way up, the tempo is once more loopy quick till we attain the small nation city of Murillo that for the reason that sealing of the street has been flooded with vacationers, totally on bikes that are extremely popular in Columbia identical to Thailand or Philippines.

From this village at 3000m we climb one other 1000m to the clouds on a street that joins the perfect bike roads I’ve ridden on this planet.

This new street is really very good however very busy on this Sunday. It isn’t so lengthy after opening and actually 1000’s of riders from across the nation have travelled to experience this excessive mountain street. I really feel lucky to be right here. There are even pure volcanic scorching spring swimming pools which are effervescent proper subsequent to the street that some locals have stripped off and are bathing in.

The descent can be good and there’s a aspect street that I’d have liked to {photograph} because it seems to be a mini Transfagarasan move that we didn’t take however it’s already nicely previous lunch and I wish to eat so I comply with the group and we cease half manner down at a restaurant which at the moment may be very busy however serves a hearty scorching meal then we proceed to the gorgeous mountain city Salento on again roads that are curvy however congested.

Mike definitely doesn’t brief change you on inns. Many group excursions (bike or in any other case) attempt to rip you off by charging for 3 or 4 star inns then reserving the most affordable. I discussed beforehand I left the Black Canine Journey membership I rode with as soon as as a result of the organizer did a bait and change on inns and what turned me off group journey once I was youthful was a tour I did with Intrepid which was horrible on many ranges particularly the shitty rooms they offered.

Beers at Salento city sq.. The guides Mike and Heine at rear beside me and three different riders on the tour having fun with some beers on the historic pub on the principle sq. in Salento.

We’re consuming at good eating places every night time however the meals has to this point been barely underwhelming. Colombia doesn’t do spicy meals.

Salento to Cali

This morning we go to a espresso plantation. The declare is Colombia espresso persistently will get rated the most effective as a result of it being all hand picked so solely ripe beans yellow and purple are harvested whereas different nations use machines to select and get some inexperienced beans within the combine.

Yeah I’m doing the complete vacationer factor this morning. I by no means do that stuff when driving solo so it’s a pleasant change, however I’m able to get again on bike after couple hours of this and no need to turn into an everyday vacationer.

Actually I didn’t just like the espresso, however then I dislike all drip filter espresso. I like Italian espresso espresso.

I’m a great distance from house in the intervening time.

The rest of the morning was driving down from the excessive espresso area on good albeit busy roads then a lunch cease (above) earlier than the ultimate descent to the valley and again into excessive temperatures.

From the valley south to Cali was not a lot enjoyable. This afternoon the roads have been main truck routes and many of the experience was spent sitting on the bumper of 1 diesel soot spewing truck after one other ready for an opportunity to move typically with little or no gaps or room for error. It’s not one thing I like or would usually be doing. The experience into Cali metropolis was gridlock site visitors requiring some intense lane splitting whereas additionally sweltering in 38 diploma warmth at site visitors lights.

Cali is the place Mike lived the final 15 years and nonetheless has property and enterprise pursuits however he’s within the technique of transferring to Denmark as a result of improve in kidnappings of kids of enterprise folks and a improve in cartel crime and a brand new president that’s enjoying all of the playing cards from the dictators play e book suggesting that Colombia is on a path to hitch bankrupt Nicaragua sooner or later. (so come experience it quickly as you may if )

This tour used to function out of Cali beforehand so the route has not modified however with the bikes now equipped in Bogota there was actually no purpose for the group to must experience the congested journey down right here at the moment. There’s nothing particular deliberate for our one night time right here and now we have to experience again the identical manner tomorrow to the mountains we left at the moment.

Cali to Montenegro

The following day the experience out of Cali is fortunately not as dangerous as journey in. We retrace a few of yesterdays route and one of many bikes utilizing spoke wheels with tubes will get a flat tyre whereas the bike being ridden by the chase rider Heine has a wheel bearing failure moments later. Having a assist automobile with bike trailer means the remainder of the group can proceed whereas this stuff are attended to behind us.

Mike needs to take a detour throughout a river on a small ferry. Its stinking scorching and takes a few goes to get the bikes throughout then the street different aspect is dusty gravel so I didn’t really feel it was price all the difficulty – however least it offered a photograph cease alternative, one thing in very brief provide on this tour.

You recognize the phrase ‘island time’ and whereas in Mexico I discovered the phrase ‘Mexican time’ however of larger magnitude is ‘Colombian time’. They joke that in Colombia if you wish to meet associates at 6pm you set the assembly for 5pm. Checking in to inns right here has so many pointless procedures all achieved in thoughts numbingly sluggish Colombian time. It took 40 minutes at the moment to get my key which makes even the Philippines look environment friendly.

I’m impressed that Mike might cellphone and BMW would ship a brand new wheel bearing with a mechanic to the resort tonight to repair the affected bike. That’s service.

Tonight was Mikes birthday and we walked from the resort to the closest pub for just a few drinks however I correctly determined to go away early as soon as the pictures began flowing and averted what ended as a messy night time with sore heads the next day.

Montenegro to Medellin

A combination of roads at the moment, initially some nice curves within the mountain espresso rising area. It’s a ‘race to the dying’ once more on the entrance of the experience group with guys jostling for the lead positions. By now I’m sick of the tempo and cease for a few pictures however then really feel pressured to get a transfer on.

We cease for recent pineapple. I liked Taiwan pineapple when in Japan (it has no onerous centre). These have been golden inside and tremendous candy.

After this we once more drop down from larger roads into the valleys and the temperature soars. Luckily the street is usually flowing though there are some cease go street works the place we filter to the entrance however are are uncovered to baking scorching solar whereas ready for the inexperienced go.

With no breaks and a late lunch cease a way off I’m beginning to really feel myself fading and unfastened focus and instantly pull over underneath a tree to take a relaxation and drink some water from my prime field. I used to be already on the rear of the group which have been taking pointless dangers passing on blind crests and blind corners. I really feel just a little responsible to be holding up the chase rider however then my security is extra vital and I’m the shopper in any case.

Rested I proceed and having had a intestine stuffed with stopping at roadworks in 39 levels simply experience previous the cease signal and filter towards the oncoming vehicles on the one lane and the information follows me. Going to be onerous to regulate again to obeying street guidelines after this once I experience New Zealand subsequent month.

If you’re a single man it’s possible you’ll not stay one for lengthy in Colombia. On the left with the nice smile is Vanessa who tells me straight up she is single and needs so as to add me in WhatsApp. In Australia ladies screw up their face and act like they stepped in canine shit if I say good day.

Medellin is a big metropolis to experience into which was hectic. The excessive temperature at the moment took it’s toll on one of many American riders who suffered warmth stroke and wanted medical help. The downtown leisure district nevertheless is improbable and well worth the experience in. Really it’s a lot better than it had been described to me by a good friend that visits right here yearly. I want we had skipped Cali and had two nights right here.

Medellin to Doradal

Medellin. A elevated metropolis that has delicate climate all yr.

A congested experience from Medellin to Guatape to go to this monolith. I didn’t climb, far too many steps to aim carrying bike boots.

The city of Guatape was very scenic and I used to be hopeful we’d have lunch in its fairly sq. because it was already 2.00pm after ready for riders who climbed the rock however alas we have been requested to experience on.

The climate which had been scorching and sunny day-after-day then immediately turned and have become chilly then low clouds rolled in with mild rain. The group had raced forward regardless of visibility being nearly zero and never stopped to place moist climate gear on. I finally caught them up at a run down roadside cafe. All have been soaked and shivering however I used to be dry and heat having donned my moist gear and loved my scorching espresso and bowl of soup. By now I discovered myself form of the odd one out and was not sitting with or speaking to anybody else within the group.

We rode over the following mountain after which out of the rain in one other half-hour. The street on to Doradal was itself not dangerous however was one other busy route stuffed with vans so proper as much as nearly darkness was spent sitting behind crawling vans belching soot ready for a spot to make a touch to the tail of the following truck and so forth. I used to be glad to get off the street tonight.

Mike delivers extra nice lodging tonight. I’ve mild dinner and excuse myself early. The conversations by the opposite riders have a tendency to show into pissing contests boasting about issues and machismo bullshit. By now I used to be already waiting for the tour ending to be sincere. I mastered the sluggish experience in Japan and wish to trundle alongside at modest velocity stopping to see issues. The driving right here may be very demanding, too quick day-after-day with little room for error not to mention time to cease and take a look at something.

Doradal to Vila de Leyva

First up at the moment we go to the previous house of drug lord Pablo Escobar. He had his personal zoo which now could be a theme park owned by authorities. Colombia needs to maneuver on from these horrible years and his home and airplane and different references to him have all been demolished now. We solely stopped on the gate.

This morning is usually flowing street ridden at excessive velocity which I don’t thoughts as it’s vast with little site visitors and the temperature has already soared into the 30’s. At a late morning break whereas a prime field that broke off the chase riders bike is salvaged I’m tempted to strive the deep fried dumplings at a avenue meals stall since lunches have been getting later day-after-day however am not recreation after getting unwell in Mexico so accept chilly drink solely. Everybody right here is tremendous pleasant and completely satisfied to assist. You’ll be able to experience Colombia solo no downside in any respect and there are bike leases in Medellin, no want to hitch a tour.

We return to the mountains however get caught at roadworks. The assist truck catches up so I get one of many path bars I had packed away to carry me over until lunch. Again on the street we’re within the cacao rising area of Colombia and cease at an award successful chocolate maker within the mountains. I’m not fussed about chocolate, it’s one thing I hardly ever eat.

Lunch is at a slightly poor roadside cafe and I’m not recreation to eat the soup I’m serveed with thriller meat in it. I order some french fries that are form of edible and name it quits after just a few of them. Numerous curves on a sequence of mountain roads after this however the street floor is torn up each few km making it not a lot enjoyable and bit bushy at instances because of the breakneck velocity being set.

I’m exhausted by the experience tempo and degree of focus it requires so go to sleep a few hours at tonight’s glorious resort thus miss seeing the well-known Vila de Leyva city sq. at sundown. I be part of the others for drinks and dinner at one other good restaurant however nonetheless serving simply easy meals then excuse myself to benefit from the avenue social gathering within the city sq. the place I be part of everybody shopping for drinks low cost from outlets and sitting round listening to musicians.

Vila de Leyva to Bogota

Ultimate day of driving now we have a reasonably straight run to Bogota with a small detour to go to an previous salt mine that’s now an underground cathedral.

I’m not a spiritual particular person so discovered it a bit contrived.

I discovered the close by city sq. extra attention-grabbing and needed to spend lunch there nevertheless as has occurred a bit on this tour as a substitute of consuming on the cafes the place we at stopped round lunch time we get all our gear on and experience a bit to have a late lunch at a spot inferior to the place we have been, however I’m nit selecting. By now I’m already very a lot wanting ahead to reaching Bogota and ending the tour.

I made a decision to play just a little recreation with the riders within the group that compete to be on the entrance on our manner into Bogota by positioning myself behind Mike the lead rider. 4 of the group then rode tremendous aggressively to dam me and power themselves to the entrance. I had amusing then drifted again to a place of security away from them. Level confirmed.

I needed to skip the farewell dinner and have a glass or two of wine on my own however made the hassle then excused myself after I completed consuming. On my Mexico tour the opposite riders have been a few of the most great folks whom made what was a reasonably unprofessional tour right into a fulfilling time for me. In Colombia the tour was very skilled however as you may collect I didn’t make associates with the contributors. Nevertheless I wish to say Mike and Heine have been tremendous good guys and I loved hanging out with them off the bike.

A lot water so near house.

From Bogota I’ve 4 flights to get house however such was the drain of driving the Colombian roads I slept many of the first two flights which stunned me as a result of I by no means sleep on planes. From San Francisco I used to be in Premium Financial system seating with United again to Brisbane and once more fell asleep and arrived again in Australia fairly rested. (By the best way I do know Qantas cops numerous flak (deserved) however their premium financial system product on the A380 from Sydney to North America is manner higher than United’s)

I slept a lot as a result of I used to be exhausted from the tempo of this experience. It left me no time to really get pleasure from the place I used to be or to take pictures. My fundamental reminiscence of Colombia is all of the roads requiring my fixed focus as a result of experience velocity, the frequent dangerous overtaking of autos and the extreme lane filtering in insanely congested cities.

Nevertheless what I skilled off the bike was very pleasant folks and protected locations with inexpensive meals and beers. There’s completely no purpose you could possibly not fly to Medellin and hire a motorcycle and experience right here solo. That’s what I’d do if I used to be to come back again. Nevertheless it’s so very far-off that it’s unlikely I’ll return. Moreover now that I’ve ridden right here and Mexico I’ve doubts I’ll go to different locations that have been on my experience bucket checklist comparable to Ecuador, Peru, Guatemala. They’re so far-off and there’s so many roads which are simply as good with much less site visitors and improbable meals nearer to house.

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