Thursday, 15 February 2024

Mexico – it’s not like they mentioned


Warren

Puebla Magico Tour

Driving Mexico has been on my bucket listing ever since 2013 however I used to be unsure about security. Speaking to riders over time simply made me extra confused. One rider would say don’t trip this space however different locations had been secure as homes. The subsequent rider would say no no no by no means go to the realm the final rider instructed me was secure. Mexico is probably going a sufferer of unhealthy press and never as harmful as portrayed nonetheless that can also be what I considered South Africa the place I found the arduous manner it utterly deserves it’s popularity and is mainly lawless.

I want unbiased journey however had been ready to trip Mexico in a gaggle and seeing the price of group moto excursions is excessive thought it might be one of many final locations I trip. Nonetheless I did a little bit of a actuality test this New Years eve. My most cancers is barely in remission and statistically it’s extra prone to return than not. I’ve an opportunity now so I higher attempt do as a lot as I can as quickly as I can.

I noticed there was a emptiness with a tour run by a Canadian firm Journey Pacific Co that travels an affordable distance (the Mexican excursions I’ve discovered beforehand on Google had been restricted of their vary). Then the clincher for me was the dates are an ideal match to mix this trip with one instantly following it in South America to make higher use of the lengthy and never cheap airfare (extra on that later).

It’s certainly an extended journey. I flew to Brisbane on a crimson eye flight after solely few hours sleep then with United Airways on to San Francisco of their premium economic system class after which right down to Mexico Metropolis. About 30 hours. Just a few days prior a cyclone made landfall the place I dwell within the tropics and I used to be involved the airport could also be flooded however fortuitously it tracked barely away final minute so my flight was not affected.

Even with nicer than customary airline seating and lounge entry I acquired no relaxation in route and was exhausted upon reaching Mexico. Nonetheless I used to be delighted that immigration took not more than 1 minute after the identical at San Francisco took 1 hour. And why does the USA stick with making folks transferring enter the USA then recheck baggage? I can consider no different nation that does this for folks transferring on similar airline. There was no meet offered by the tour at Mexico Metropolis airport however it is vitally simple to make use of the regulated airport taxi’s.

You suppose taxi drivers in Thailand drive quick, haha these guys are rookies. My driver was doing 120 in 40k zones on verge of rolling our automobile in bends. Clearly there is no such thing as a dashing enforced right here. Met a few of the crew for this trip on the lodge and grabbed an hour sleep earlier than we went out for dinner and paid far an excessive amount of for a glass of wine which I’ll put right down to misplaced in translation.

Subsequent day I mainly simply dozed on and off all day then met the remainder of the riders within the night.

The tour correct began the day after. All of us did the hop on hop off bus factor. There are 3 different guys, one from US, 2 from Eire then 5 women from Canada. One information is from Mexico metropolis and one from Canada. I’m solely casually keen on historic sightseeing and as luck would have it so had been the lads from Eire so once I urged we go for a beer as a substitute they eagerly agreed.

I knew I used to be going to get alongside effective with these chaps straight away

The afternoon turned a blur on the bus caught endlessly in visitors jams.

For this trip I selected the BMW 1250 GS. It’s been a very long time since I rode a boxer. Beforehand their air cooled 1200 on my first USA tour and older 1150cc boxers in Japan and Malaysia. I by no means actually preferred these older boxer engines a lot however I’m trying ahead to attempt the water cooled shift cam engine and with some excessive milage days it’s a tour I need a greater bike.

The trip begins

Mexico Metropolis to Oaxaca. That’s an formidable distance (for a brand new combined group imo). A 7.30 am departure is introduced. It’s a brisk 8 levels however that temperature will rise sharply as we drop off the excessive plain that the sprawling Mexico Metropolis is positioned on. A number of the group and the chase rider get separated. The guides at lead and chase wouldn’t have comms. We now have a delay and hit some peak visitors however the Mexico metropolis drivers aren’t aggressive in direction of bikes.

I’m already impressed with the 1250 and glad I selected it on todays all freeway trip. The GS presents first rate safety from wind, I can trip with my visor up (as I want) if the adjustable display screen is absolutely raised. The bike is effectively balanced and doesn’t really feel massive in any respect as soon as underway besides the bars are contact too far ahead for me. The brand new engine is far improved over the older air cooled ones. It’s surprisingly easy and has a robust energy supply. The bike is comfy for about 1 1/2 hours seat time for me.

We cease mid morning at a really fairly little city Tlaxcala stuffed with colonial fashion buildings and a fantastic most important sq.. It is rather clear with espresso outlets and road market stalls. The folks all smile and say hiya. I used to be delighted. It’s precisely what I had hoped to expertise in Mexico.

Our lead information or street captain as they are saying in Asia, Francisco has the group doing longish stints within the saddle which I do know is required to get a gaggle throughout this kind of distance nonetheless by 1.30pm with no signal of a lunch break I trip as much as the entrance and movement I have to cease. I hate to be a drama queen but it surely’s been 6 1/2 hours since we had breakfast and I want some meals and hydration.

The afternoons tempo is frustratingly gradual. Stunning freeway with 110kph posted and the street captain has us doing 80 kph holding up string of vehicles. I don’t wish to sound too detrimental, I do know that is first day of a pilot tour of a brand new firm and the guides are beautiful folks nonetheless studying however I’ll at all times write trustworthy experiences as a result of that is my private journey diary I don’t reply to any sponsors.

Mat and I bored on the rear and large queue of indignant automobile drivers backed up.
Stunning street, 83kph…

We didn’t attain the vacation spot until darkness after 7.00pm and everyone seems to be exhausted. Then we’re driving round and spherical at the hours of darkness in search of the parking place for the lodge that ought to have been identified previous to arrival. It was inevitable that one of many group light and had a small accident. MJ was okay just a few bruising. I righted her bike and noticed it had solely small harm however felt irritated 12 hours of driving was compelled upon her to trigger this.

We had a pleasant dinner that evening however didn’t get to see something of this famously stunning city we rode all day to achieve and there’s no plan to see it tomorrow both so I used to be left questioning what thought went into in the present day’s route.

Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido. A gathering was held at 8.00 am and it was urged that if there have been no objections we’d trip the freeway to tonight’s vacation spot of Puerto Escondido as a substitute of the twisty mountain route. Everybody agreed besides me. I identified the street being skipped is without doubt one of the extra well-known driving roads in Mexico and lacking this to trip a freeway was not what I got here all the way in which from Australia for. The group then was cut up with initially simply me and Francisco driving the twisty route however that grew to 4 with Kate and Carolyn opting to hitch me.

Appreciable time was wasted getting the remainder of the folks loaded on their bikes when that would have been achieved by the opposite information. Then extra time was wasted sitting round fueling all the group once we 4 had been going our separate methods and will have fueled in route. In whole 1 hour and 30min was misplaced sitting round. Common readers know from my Georgia trip I’ve a ton of persistence however that was examined this morning.

Occasional indicators of Mexico’s safety points – machine gun armed guards at this mornings fuel station.

At the least we acquired a clear run out of city then Francisco upped the tempo from yesterday’s pathetic 85 to 120-130 on comparable extensive flowing roads. Subsequent was some again roads then we reached a brief mountain climb and the twisties started and by no means let up. Very old-fashioned surveying fixed change of course stuff. The 1250 GS is a simple bike to trip on these roads. I’m beginning to see why this bike is so widespread. It provided first rate wind safety on the quick roads and now it handles very properly within the tight stuff and offers with the numerous pace bumps that are on each street in Mexico (their strategy to management pace).

We cease for a photograph shoot and the group elects to have a chew to eat on the little roadside store which made very tasty calzone’s.

Todays lunch cease

After this we acquired very fortunate arriving at an accident scene the tow truck attempting to carry a wreck up an embankment took a break and we had been let by. Little did we all know the opposite group had been unable to take the freeway and have become caught at this crash web site later.

Sorry for the picture tearing

From right here I discovered myself because the lead rider. I anticipated Francisco to catch up and take over however he left me up entrance. I attempted to make a easy flowing tempo that was neither quick nor gradual and moved to move vehicles as shortly as I might to keep up that movement. This proved to be a very good factor giving us a better common pace and our ETA improved. When stopped for a bathroom and drink break the ladies and Francisco requested me to proceed.

Todays route known as street of 1,000 turns by bikers nonetheless it most likely has 5 instances that many corners (no exaggeration). It’s like packing all of the corners of all the MHS loop in northern Thailand into 150km. The ultimate 50km is completely surveyed all new hotmix by a tropical forest. In fact a decent twisty street like this enclosed with timber can’t be photographed so you’ll have to belief me.

Relaxation day in Puerto Escondido. It was determined we keep right here an additional evening as the opposite group didn’t attain the lodge till 8.00pm and had been completely drained and little worse for put on with two riders having minor accidents.

It’s a beautiful seaside city and nothing like I imagined. It might be the Philippines besides the costs are a lot larger. Truly meals to date will not be less expensive than Australia however I presume it’s because we’re consuming in vacationer eating places and that supermarkets and utilities aren’t as costly.

I acquired my first dose of Montezuma’s Revenge (which is the Mexican model of vacationers diarrhea) and needed to relaxation this afternoon. Mexico is notorious for poor meals hygiene as I used to be going to find this journey.

Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido-Salina Cruz. We trip alongside the coast in the present day and cease on the fairly seaside city of Mazunte. Once more it jogs my memory of locations I’ve been within the Philippines like Palawan with the exception the waves listed here are massive however Philippines has very calm shallow water.

Mazunte

Right this moment we’re cut up once more in two teams that are roughly the sooner and slower riders. The guides swapped lead positions in the present day after which appeared to get confused which group they’re main. Our information was driving at 10-20km under the pace restrict and sitting behind gradual shifting automobiles while the gradual group had been already effectively forward of us.

Nonetheless the roads themselves had been good, loads of curves and effectively surfaced and good surveying. The fellows from Eire mentioned they’d sufficient going gradual within the warmth and rode forward to todays lodge by themselves. The women requested the information to go somewhat sooner however she declined so I took the lead for a short time. I really don’t thoughts a slower tempo whether it is cool and scenic nonetheless in the present day within the scorching scorching situations I needed to get to the lodge asap and escape the extraordinary afternoon warmth.

I acquired a pleasant bottle of wine from the mall subsequent to tonight’s lodge we had a small get together with the Eire lads (really Mat is initially from Poland) which was many laughs.

Joyful consumers. Hamming it up in my Mexican shorts.

Salina Cruz to San Cristobal. An formidable route in the present day to make up for the unscheduled break day in Puerto Escondido. Nonetheless it’s largely 4 lane freeway and toll street expressways so it needs to be not be too tough if the guides keep a good pace and move gradual automobiles shortly.

A bit of little bit of a scare mid morning when one of many women was run off the street by a reckless truck at a junction. She disappeared from my mirrors and I finished to attend then different truckers had been motioning one thing occurred and my coronary heart was in my mouth so I ran to my bike and located a observe throughout to different facet of freeway then went again and was relieved to see she was okay simply caught in a gutter. Fortuitously the junction had a large concrete strip that become a drain that she used as a emergency stopping space to brake the bike safely with out harm.

Nothing a lot to {photograph} when on expressways however we did get stopped by police in a single city for lacking quantity plates which Francisco shortly sorted out.

We now have been going to good eating places every evening however personally I’ve discovered Mexican meals to be underwhelming and little costly. Meals every evening (not lined within the tour) with one or two drinks have been $35-$50 AUD. Nonetheless I’ve been having fun with the corporate every evening very a lot and it’s a good change from my solo rides the place I usually get one thing from a grocery store or select easy eating choices.

Relaxation day in San Cristobal. The plan was to hitch a strolling tour however the Mexican meals was not sitting effectively with me and I had one other go to by Montezuma’s revenge thus had to return to the lodge to be near a toilet. I ventured out for a late non Mexican lunch then again to room for a day nap.

Tonight I used to be recovered however then foolishly joined a few of the others consuming road taco’s however someway acquired away with this.

San Cristobal-Palenque. Right this moment I believe the tempo gave the impression to be proper. The group was once more divided and the guides swapped however in the present day largely they rode on the pace restrict or little over, handed gradual vehicles shortly and lane cut up the place wanted and go round gradual vans at test factors or on the 1000’s of pace bumps that fill Mexican roads.

Lunch cease
Alas my little Casio digicam stopped saving photos after this for causes not but identified

Within the afternoon it’s scorching scorching. We go to a waterfall and some of the group strip down for a dip and even wade in sporting their driving gear. I have to say it was so scorching I used to be tempted to soak my rider gear after which get evaporative cooling when driving however I settled for contemporary coconut juice as holding rehydrated is the extra necessary factor in warmth.

We arrive the lodge mid afternoon earlier than the worst of the warmth and revel in chilly beers on the pool. Everyone seems to be glad.

The evening took a flip to the wild facet when a couple of of us went for a drink after dinner which Mat (above) become many mezcal pictures.

Palenque-Villahermosa. This morning we go to the Palenque Mayan ruins. This is without doubt one of the main historical Mayan cities. Thus far solely 2% has been salvaged from the jungle with 1000’s of buildings like under nonetheless utterly submerged which makes my thoughts boggle as to how massive the location is.

A comparatively quick trip then into Villahermosa which is within the Tabasco province and I famous the drivers listed here are extra aggressive. One refused to let me move to hitch the opposite riders forward of him swerving backward and forward and brake checking me then stopping utterly on a flyover ramp earlier than attempting to run into me. Your life should actually be depressing mister VW SUV driver ha-ha.

It was good to reach in a city with time to discover. I did some folks watching within the city strolling road with a delicate serve from Burger King and came across the Villahermosa carnival which was wonderful.

Villahermosa-Tlacotalpan. Right this moment was largely freeway however nonetheless it appeared an extended and tiring trip as a result of excessive warmth and working into many sugar cane street trains on the ultimate part of the route which had been being hauled to the mill by tractors at strolling tempo.

We arrived at Tlacotalpan to find they’d a working of the bulls competition in the present day – which we had simply missed by an hour. I actually wished the guides had deliberate for us to see this. Oh effectively.

I needed to have a early evening as I as soon as once more was hit by Montezuma’s revenge.

Tlacotalpan-Coatepec. After so many effective scorching days this morning I woke to overcast skies. Driving alongside the gulf of Mexico we encountered very robust cross winds till lunch. I used to be unwell in the present day and felt reasonably weak. Lunch was espresso and cake in Veracruz the place the group was interviewed by native television crew whereas visiting the seaside. I attempted to see if I used to be on television or their social media however unsure if it aired or not.

Within the afternoon rain was looming forward so I donned my moist gear pondering it most likely is not going to be wanted nonetheless that was not the case and we had a pair hours of sunshine rain earlier than reaching our lodge. Carolyn didn’t put her rain gear on and acquired soaked and chilled to the bone.

I didn’t get to see a lot of Coatepec because the city was enshrouded in a heavy fog and I used to be not effectively sufficient to go far. I acquired extra medication on the pharmacy and grabbed a burger then walked again to my room.

It was a disgrace however I already had a weak abdomen after my chemotherapy so I’m simply grateful to have made it to right here. Mat and the ladies checked in on me a few instances which was candy.

Coatepec-Mexico Metropolis. Fortuitously the brand new medication actually helped and subsequent day I used to be prepared for the trip again into Mexico metropolis. A protracted breakfast was had however I used to be not sport to eat a lot then some group photographs in our tour shirts.

Terrific bunch of individuals

The late begin had me involved about hitting peak visitors in Mexico metropolis so on the gas cease when Mat and Sean mentioned they had been going forward I knew they might be setting a cracking tempo to reach earlier than the crush and determined to hitch them, then Kate and Carolyn who rode with me for a lot of this tour mentioned they might additionally.

Todays trip to the outskirts of town was the perfect of the tour. We bombed alongside at 150kph+ on the 4 lane freeway one thing I’ve not achieved since I rode a Kawasaki ZXR750 within the 90’s on the then much less policed roads in Australia. We climbed to the tablelands the place Mexico metropolis is positioned and the freeway turned a quick extensive sweeping mountain move (suppose Burringbah vary for aussies or route 12 in Thailand for expats) the place we loved many lengthy radius sweeping banked excessive pace curves driving at 100-120 kph with l-o-n-g cling time. Sheer motorcycling pleasure and extra proof the 1250GS is certainly an outstanding allrounder.

Cease at street works

Mat is a multi gifted particular person together with a pure street captain, he subsequent guided us expertly into congested Mexico metropolis in difficult situations.

5 gringos trip Mexico. Mat, Sean, Kate, Carolyn and myself at rear. Humorous and fascinating folks with a zest for all times I discover magnetic. I instantly was drawn to and clicked with these folks and miss them already. They made this tour a beautiful expertise for me and adjusted my opinion on driving in a gaggle.

Mexico – it’s not like they mentioned. You possibly can come and trip this route solo no drawback in any respect. Everybody I interacted with spoke some English. You want know nothing quite a lot of phrases of Spanish to be well mannered. This area will not be harmful in any respect until you’re a naive fool. Mexican individuals are very pleasant. Nothing may be very tough right here. Alternatively in the event you stay uncertain then I like to recommend you take a look at future excursions right here run however the firm I went with as I’m certain they may construct strongly on this journey and give you a really satisfying expertise.

Thanks for studying – in few days I’ll trip Colombia.

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